Residential · Pipes, leaks & valves
Water Line Replacement in Markham
The pipe that carries city water from the street into your basement is out of sight for decades. When it fails, you notice fast.
- Pipe strapped and insulated on cold exterior walls
- Static and flow pressure read at a hose bib
- Copper, PEX and poly-b repairs and replacement
- Main shut-off exercised and labelled
- Licensed plumbers (details on request)
- Price agreed before work
- Call-only, no forms
- Tested before we leave



Signs you need water line replacement
Your water service runs underground from the municipal curb stop, typically near the sidewalk or property line, to the meter in your basement. Older services may be copper, galvanized steel or even lead in the oldest homes. Problems tend to look like this:
- A wet patch in the yard or on the driveway that stays wet, even in July.
- Damp foundation concrete at the point the line enters.
- Weak pressure on every tap that started gradually.
- A water bill that jumps with no change in use.
Our routine on the day
Before any digging, utility locates are requested so gas, hydro and cable lines are marked. We also confirm with the City of Markham which part of the service is the homeowner's responsibility and which belongs to the municipality, as the curb stop and anything on the street side is generally theirs.
Depending on the yard, we either open a trench along the old line or use a trenchless method to pull new pipe through. Trenchless options save landscaping and driveways, though not every soil or route suits them. The replacement line, copper or an approved plastic sized for modern demand, is buried below frost depth and brought through the foundation with a proper seal. Indoors, the line ties into a fresh main valve ahead of the meter.
When the line is live, we flush it, check pressure at several fixtures and restore the yard to a tidy, level state.
Markham houses and what shapes this job
Century homes along Main Street in Unionville and Markham Village sometimes still have galvanized or lead services, and those are good candidates for replacement before they fail. In neighbourhoods built from the 1970s on, copper services are common and generally healthy, although clay soil and settling can stress connections. Mature trees in Thornhill and German Mills complicate trenching, which is where trenchless installation shines.
Sizing the new line
Older services were often half-inch or three-quarter-inch pipe, sized for one bathroom. A family home with a lawn sprinkler, two showers and a dishwasher running at once benefits from a larger line. We suggest a size based on your fixtures and plans.
Ring us without delay if
Water coming through the basement wall around the service pipe deserves a visit before nightfall. Close the main shut-off inside if it works; if it does not, see main shut-off valve replacement. A sudden bill spike is another clue worth chasing, and the water bill spike brief shows how to test with your meter.
If the leak is between the curb stop and the street main, call Markham's water services first.
From the job notes of Plumbers in Markham
Job card · Pipes, leaks & valves
On the van for this job
- Pipe cutters, propane torch and press tools for copper
- Gauges for static and flow pressure tests
Signs you need this
- The meter dial turns with every tap off
- Flow that falls off when a second tap opens
What we check before we pack up
- Read static pressure at a hose bib
- Pressure-test new pipe before closing walls
| Pipe | Era | Watch for |
|---|---|---|
| Galvanized steel | Pre-1960s | Rust narrows the bore |
| Poly-b (grey) | About 1978 to 1995 | Fitting failures, brittle pipe |
Markham note. Markham water service lines enter on the street-facing basement wall, and the main shut-off and meter usually sit right there. In older houses that valve is often a rusty multi-turn gate valve left untouched since the house was built.
How the job runs, start to finish
- 1
On the phone
Explain what the water is doing and where. We ask the age of the house and which valve or breaker to shut while we drive over.
- 2
Drop cloths down
Floors and cabinets get covered, the water or gas is isolated and the work area is lit.
- 3
Find the failed part
We open the trap, cleanout, access panel or wall where the fault is, and show you what we found.
- 4
Quote, then work
We explain what failed and what the fix costs; no cutting starts until you say yes.
- 5
Cut, fit, seal
Old parts come out, new pipe, valves or fixtures go in, and joints are soldered, pressed, crimped or glued.
- 6
Test and ticket
We run water, pressure-test or fire the heater, check for drips, clean up and leave a written ticket of what was done.