Residential · Hot water tanks & tankless
Tankless Water Heater Installation in Markham
On-demand heaters mount on a wall and need a larger gas line, a dedicated vent, a condensate drain and isolation valves for descaling. We size the gas, run the vent and flush the heat exchanger on start-up.
- Sediment flushed from tanks worth keeping
- Gas, venting and relief valve checked on every visit
- Tank, power-vent and tankless units serviced
- Old tank drained and hauled away on replacement
- Licensed plumbers (details on request)
- Price agreed before work
- Call-only, no forms
- Tested before we leave
Signs you need tankless water heater installation
Your current tank is nearing retirement age and you would like to reclaim the space it occupies. Back-to-back showers exit the last person shivering. You're finishing the basement and want the utility room smaller. You prefer a heater that does not hold a big tank at temperature all day and night. A tankless system is not right for every home, but in these situations it is worth considering.
Our routine on the day
Sizing comes first. We work out how many fixtures might run at the same time and the temperature rise needed in a Canadian winter, when incoming water is much colder. That determines the unit's capacity and the gas supply it requires. Many tankless units require more gas pipe capacity than an ordinary tank, so we check the meter and piping capacity before anything else.
On installation day, the unit is mounted on a wall, connected to gas and water, and vented with the materials the manufacturer specifies, often through a side wall. We install isolation valves to allow future descaling, set the temperature, and run several fixtures at once to confirm steady output. You get a walkthrough of the controls and any error codes worth knowing.
Markham houses and what shapes this job
Larger homes in Angus Glen, Cachet and Victoria Square may need a high-capacity unit, or even two units, to supply several bathrooms at once. Townhouses in Cornell and Cathedraltown sometimes have limited exterior wall space for vent terminations, which must respect clearances from windows, doors and property lines.
Gas supply is a frequent hurdle. If the existing line is undersized, it may need upgrading from the meter. We tell you up front rather than discovering it halfway through the job.
Some households also find that a short delay for hot water at distant fixtures is noticeable, especially in long two-storey homes. A recirculation option can reduce that wait, and we can talk through whether it is worth including.
Is tankless right for you?
Our tank vs tankless guide lays out the trade-offs plainly: installed cost, maintenance, space, and how your family actually uses hot water.
Condensate is another detail. High-efficiency condensing units produce slightly acidic water that must drain safely, often through a neutralizer to a floor drain or pump. We plan that route along with the gas and vent work so nothing is left as an afterthought.
Ring us without delay if
There is rarely an emergency with tankless installation itself. If your current tank is leaking and you would like to switch, call us, and we can discuss a temporary solution or a quick conventional gas tank replacement.
Hard water and tankless: mineral scale builds up quickly in the heat exchanger.
From the job notes of Plumbers in Markham
Job card · Hot water tanks & tankless
On the van for this job
- Combustion and gas leak testing tools
- Hose, pump and dolly for draining and moving tanks
Signs you need this
- Showers going lukewarm halfway through
- Rusty or cloudy hot water
What we check before we pack up
- Check the gas supply, venting and draft
- Confirm flame, elements and recovery
| Type | How it works | Usual fault |
|---|---|---|
| Gas tank, natural draft | Simple, chimney vented | Pilot, thermocouple, sediment |
| Electric tank | No venting, slower recovery | Elements, thermostats |
How the job runs, start to finish
- 1
On the phone
Explain what the water is doing and where. We ask the age of the house and which valve or breaker to shut while we drive over.
- 2
Drop cloths down
Floors and cabinets get covered, the water or gas is isolated and the work area is lit.
- 3
Find the failed part
We open the trap, cleanout, access panel or wall where the fault is, and show you what we found.
- 4
Quote, then work
We explain what failed and what the fix costs; no cutting starts until you say yes.
- 5
Cut, fit, seal
Old parts come out, new pipe, valves or fixtures go in, and joints are soldered, pressed, crimped or glued.
- 6
Test and ticket
We run water, pressure-test or fire the heater, check for drips, clean up and leave a written ticket of what was done.