Residential · Sump pits & flooding
Battery Backup Sump Pump in Markham
The backup unit shares the pit with the primary pump, mounted a little higher, with its own check valve and a deep-cycle battery on a charger. When the power drops or the main pump fails, the float starts it.
- Pit liner cleared of gravel that jams the float
- Union fitted so the next pump swap is quick
- Discharge traced away from the foundation
- Spring and summer storm calls taken first
- Licensed plumbers (details on request)
- Price agreed before work
- Call-only, no forms
- Tested before we leave
Signs you require a battery backup sump pump
You have a finished basement where water would ruin flooring, walls or stored belongings. Power outages are not unusual on your street. You are away often and the house stays empty for days at a time. The primary pump is several years old. You have had a close call where the pit nearly overflowed. If any of this sounds familiar, a backup is a modest investment against a large cleanup.
Our routine on the day
We start by looking at the existing pit, pump and discharge. A backup pump needs room in the pit, its own float switch set slightly higher than the primary, and either its own discharge line or a properly configured shared line with check valves on both pumps. Without that, water from one pump can simply cycle back through the other.
The battery sits in a sealed case on a shelf or stand above the floor, away from any potential water. A charger keeps it topped up, and an alarm sounds if the backup starts running or the battery needs attention. Once everything is connected, we test both pumps together and individually, then unplug the primary to confirm the backup takes over without hesitation.
Markham houses and what shapes this job
Markham experiences strong summer thunderstorms and the occasional ice storm, both of which can knock out power across neighbourhoods. When hydro fails during heavy rain, the water table around a foundation keeps rising while the primary pump sits idle. In clay soil areas around Box Grove, Cornell and Greensborough, pits can fill quickly once the rain sets in.
Pit size is a frequent limit. Some builder pits are narrow and leave little space for two pumps and two floats. In those cases we may suggest a larger liner, or a combination unit designed to fit in tight spaces. We explain the trade-offs before making a recommendation.
There is also the question of water-powered backups, which use municipal water pressure to drive a small pump. They depend on adequate water pressure and local plumbing code approval, so we discuss whether they fit your home and what inspection would involve.
How long will it run?
Runtime hinges on the size of the battery and on how frequently the pump cycles. During a light rain, a charged battery may last a long time; during a heavy storm with a high water table, much less. We help you choose a battery sized to your pit's realistic workload.
Ring us without delay if
Book before storm season if you have a finished basement and no backup. If the primary is already failing, our sump pump repair page covers that first, and our away-from-home note explains why backups matter when nobody is around to notice an alarm.
When hydro fails during heavy rain, the water table around a foundation keeps rising while the primary pump sits idle.
From the job notes of Plumbers in Markham
Job card · Sump pits & flooding
On the van for this job
- Submersible and pedestal pumps sized to the pit inflow
- Float switches and alarm sensors
Signs you need this
- Motor humming while the pit stays full
- A clunk from the check valve every cycle
What we check before we pack up
- Fill the pit with a pail to test the float
- Trace the discharge to daylight and away from the house
| Fault | What you notice | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Float stuck on the liner wall | Pump never starts | Re-seat the pump, clear the pit |
| Burned-out motor | Humming or silence | Pump replacement |
How the job runs, start to finish
- 1
On the phone
Explain what the water is doing and where. We ask the age of the house and which valve or breaker to shut while we drive over.
- 2
Drop cloths down
Floors and cabinets get covered, the water or gas is isolated and the work area is lit.
- 3
Find the failed part
We open the trap, cleanout, access panel or wall where the fault is, and show you what we found.
- 4
Quote, then work
We explain what failed and what the fix costs; no cutting starts until you say yes.
- 5
Cut, fit, seal
Old parts come out, new pipe, valves or fixtures go in, and joints are soldered, pressed, crimped or glued.
- 6
Test and ticket
We run water, pressure-test or fire the heater, check for drips, clean up and leave a written ticket of what was done.